Lamb Wellington

July 31, 2001

Red meat has tended to get a bit of a bad press in recent times, specially in those circles where the virtual elimination of fat from the diet is the goal. As with most things, moderation and a sensible approach seem to be the current thinking.

Fortunately in this part of the world we don't have the added worry of foot and mouth disease or mad cow disease. Farmers have responded to market demands and bred leaner lamb and beef. We also have Trim Pork, a vastly leaner variety of pork than our mothers ever cooked.

While tastes have changed and we no longer serve lamb or hogget chops oozing with fat, the lighter leaner cuts have come into their own. Chops have now been left on the bone, trimmed of all visible fat, chined and presented as racks of lamb. These cook quickly in a hot oven, are sweet and tender and don't leave a congealing puddle on the plate.

Today my recipe is a variation on that old-fashioned masterpiece, Beef Wellington where a fillet of beef was partly cooked, spread with pate, wrapped in pastry and baked to golden perfection. Of course there was the occasional dinner party where the hostess didn't realise she was supposed to partly cook the beef first… But this version doesn't leave a lot of scope for error.

Lamb Wellington

3 racks lamb, chined
blanched spinach leaves
well-flavoured pate

Trim the rack of lamb of any fat. Blanch the spinach leaves in boiling water, dry and spread out two-thick into a square shape on the chopping board. Spread with pate and roll up into thin cigar shapes.

Take a long sharp knife and make a tunnel down the eye of the meat from one end to the other of the lamb racks. Push in a wooden spoon handle, basting tube or similar to open out the tunnel and then push in the spinach and pate rolls into the tunnel. Trim the ends.

Spread some made mustard or plum sauce on top of the lambs and cook in a preheated 200C oven for 25 minutes. Allow to rest for five minute before carving between each bone.

Arrange artistically on individual plates. Serve garnished with pastry crescents. For additional garnish, try shaved lengths of parsnip sprayed with oil and baked in the hot oven for 15 minutes till then crisp up.

Any meat residue in the baking pan can be stirred and combined with 1/4 cup dry marsala and a little vegetable stock, then reduced.

Stir-fried snow peas and carrot sticks make an attractive accompaniment.