Broccolini

January 22, 2002

I attended a small family reunion the other weekend. My mother, sister and I all live in different cities and so we decided to get together in Wellington for my mother's birthday. The three of us have spent very little time together in recent years, so it was good to get together and reminisce without having to worry about spouses and kids glazing over and getting that "When are we leaving?" look.

I flew in from Christchurch, a nice piece of Canterbury salmon and some West Coast whitebait in my suitcase. I'd sent some bottles of local wines ahead with son James after Christmas.

The Friday night saw us tucking into whitebait fritters followed by Jamie Oliver's tray-baked salmon with beans, olives, anchovies and cherry tomatoes.

My sister Lynne was on cooking duty the following night and she whipped up a very tender dish of roast lamb with garlic and rosemary followed by agreeably sinful profiteroles with lashings of chocolate sauce. We'd gone to the supermarket to collect some vegetables and there, among the trendy baby vegetables, were little bunches of broccolini.

Broccolini is one of those relatively new hybrid vegetables, a cross between broccoli and Chinese kale or gai lan. It was developed by a Japanese seed company, the Sakata Seed Co. of America in Morgan Hill, Calif., and took about eight years to perfect. Broccolini is also known as asparation - probably intended to hint at an association with asparagus because the vegetable has a small floret at the end of an asparagus-like stalk.

It's sweeter and more tender than ordinary broccoli and has a slightly peppery bite. It can be cooked in a variety of ways but should not be overcooked. An al dente approach is probably best, retaining a little resistance to the tooth but not leaving it too crunchy.

Broccolini is a good source of Vitamins A and C, folate and potassium. It has no fat and good levels of calcium - a third more than broccoli - and iron. It keeps well if it's refrigerated.

I've often used broccoli as a green for its looks. Broccolini goes one better, as well as having a slightly more interesting flavour.

My choice for cooking broccolini is to steam or simmer it lightly - there is no need to peel off any of the outside skin. Meanwhile melt a couple of tablespoons of butter in a pan until it begins to foam then stir in the juice of a lemon, cook for a minute or two then drizzle over the drained broccolini. Some toasted flaked almonds sprinkled over the top make an interest contrast in textures.

I also like the idea of including broccolini in Asian-style dishes. That peppery flavour it gets from its gai lan ancestry is ideal in this situation.

For more broccolini recipes, check out the Mann Packing Company's site, http://www.broccoli.com/Product.asp?PID=5. It's one of the most comprehensive sites around when it comes to the broccoli family - did you know, for example, that broccoli grows best in cold climates and that it should be harvested in the cooler months to ensure the longest storage time? Or that the name comes from the Italian word brocco meaning arm branch? The word broccolo is the diminutive form of brocco and refers to cabbage sprout, while broccoli is plural and refers to the numerous shoots on the plant.

Picture: Mann Packing Company, the world's largest shipper of broccoli.

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