Grape Bread

April 2, 2002

When a local grape grower invited us out to his vineyard for lunch and a look around over Easter, we didn't need a second invitation.

Unfortunately it turned out to be a cold, wet, wintry day and we motored through a mix of rain and hail to get there, but there was a welcoming fire and a glass of riesling to make up for the weather when we arrived.

Our host grows four varieties of grapes on his 25-acre block - pinot noir, riesling, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. He doesn't make wine himself, but sells his crop to winemakers and gets some of the finished product for his own cellar.

During a break in the weather we climbed into his four-wheel drive wagon for a tour of the vineyard. First stop was the pinot noir block. The grapes are almost ready for picking and just waiting for the brix or sweetness level to get into the right range. These really were very black grapes, a mixture of medium and small on the bunches, known as "hen and chickens."

After the comparatively tasteless quality of the large table grapes, it was a joy to taste the flavour in these grapes, and in the nearby chardonnay bunches.

The spouse and I enjoy a good sauvignon blanc and were familiar with the gooseberry characteristic of numerous vintages. But we were really surprised how marked the gooseberry flavour was in the actual grapes.

Next time we open a bottle we will have a good picture of the grapes on the vine.

Our host has also planted a lot of olive trees, the larger of these now bearing respectable numbers of fruit.

It must be satisfying to harvest a product that has been nurtured for several months and then to taste the wine further down the track.

Somehow, though, I don't think I have the right nervous temperament to grow a commercial crop of any sort. All through lunch I kept looking out the window hoping the hail would stay away. Seeing the lovely black grapes reminded me of an Italian dish, Schiacciata con l'uva which is a grape bread, not unlike focaccia.

It is made in central Italy during the grape harvest and can be made very simply if you have a bread machine. It may not be the traditional way of doing things, but is quick and easy. Take the long way round, if you wish, and knead manually.

Grape Bread

3 cups bread flour
2 teaspoons granulated yeast
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup warm water
500g black grapes
extra sugar

Place the flour in your breadmaker along with the yeast, sugar and salt. Pour in the oil and water and, using the manual setting, press start. Add a little more water if the mix looks too dry.

Remove the grapes from the stalks, wash and drain and place in a bowl, pressing lightly to squash them a little. Sprinkle over a little sugar.

When the mix has been kneaded, has risen and the beep sounds, remove the dough from the pan and divide in half. Pat each half out into a circle.

Place one round on a non-stick tray and spread with about half of the grapes, then cover with the second circle and press the remaining grapes into the dough. Place in a warm place to rise again for about 45 minutes. Sprinkle with a few fennel seeds if desired.

Meanwhile heat the oven to 200C. When the bread has risen, bake it for about 30 minutes until the top is golden.