Eggplant caviar

July 16, 2002

We were invited to Government House for dinner last week. Along with about 50 other Wellingtonians we were the guests of our Governor General, Dame Silvia Cartwright.

Over the years I have visited there several times, from reporting on Vice Regal functions, writing features about the decor, as a guest at receptions for various members of the Royal family, and a couple of times for dinner.

Perhaps one of my most memorable visits was being sent there one Saturday morning to report on a presentation ceremony in the grounds. Being a Saturday, most of my journalist colleagues were in casual dress, not a tie among the men. I was the tidiest in a tweed suit so I got the job.

There I was pen and notebook in hand, taking notes, when there was a drip on my hand. And another, and another. In quick succession. My nose was bleeding. I struggled through my pockets for a handkerchief, torn between making notes and restoring my dignity. I was glad we were outside and that I wasn't decorating the parlour carpet. Fortunately I did not stage a repeat performance last week.

One of the questions I am invariably asked after going to such a function is "What did you have to eat?"

We started with roast salmon served with eggplant caviar and courgettes. The main course was venison accompanied by beetroot gnocchi, blue cheese sauce, a delicious fig relish, cavolo nero (Tuscan black cabbage) and tiny green beans bundled in a strip of bacon.

For dessert we were served a drunken fruit pudding - individual steamed puddings with luscious alcohol-soaked dried fruit.

Coffee and petits fours were served afterwards in the drawing room.

I've often made eggplant caviar, also know as Poor Man's Caviar, to serve with crostini or as a dip to snack with pre-dinner drinks. Serving it was hot salmon was a new one on me, but its fresh flavour provided a pleasant contrast to the fish. Here's my version.

One word of advice - spear the eggplant in a couple of places. This will prevent it exploding in the oven - it can happen and it can decorate the oven quite spectacularly.

Eggplant Caviar

1 large eggplant
2 tomatoes
1/2 a medium onion, very finely chopped
2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
juice of a lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 200C. Place the eggplant on a baking dish and cook until it become very soft and collapses.

Remove from the oven and when it's cool enough to handle, strip off the skin and remove the stalk.

Chop the flesh and place it in a sieve to drain.

Meanwhile plunge the tomatoes in boiling water, remove the skins and cores, squeeze out the seeds and finely chop the flesh. Place in a bowl with the eggplant, chopped onion, parsley and garlic and mash together with a fork. Add the lemon juice and oil and check to see if the flavour is balanced, adding more of either if you wish. Season with salt and pepper. Chill.

Serve on crostini or with Melba toast or crackers - or try it as an accompaniment to pan-fried salmon!