Gin and Tonic Sorbet

March 18, 2003

I recall a man I once worked with remarking apropos nothing: "I always find a little dab of gin behind the ears enhances any woman.‚"

I don't know what brought that on or if, in fact, he genuinely believed it, but I had a little chuckle to myself one day when I was checking out some perfume samples and one did, indeed, smell like gin. Maybe he went into the perfume business.

Gin rocketed to popularity in London in the 1700s after excise taxes on beer doubled and farmers were able to get rid of their excess corn to the burgeoning gin trade. Several hundred distilleries sprang up around the city and it soon became the chemical oblivion agent of choice. By 1736 the government was passing legislation aimed at reducing the number of London gin shops, and upping the taxes on the drink. Even so, by the 1740s, the locals were soaking up 8 millions gallons of the stuff each year.

Contemporary artist William Hogarth's Gin Lane, http://www.shu.ac.uk/schools/cs/teaching... painted in 1751, is a commentary on the destructive influence of gin in those times.

Gin tends to be a love it or leave it drink these days. Some people just can't stand it while others regard a nice long G&T as a just reward for a hard day's work.

The drink also translates rather well into a refreshing sorbet to serve between courses at dinner. I like it with a good dash of lime or lemon - almost enough to entice non gin-drinkers to sample and enjoy.

Start making this the day before it is required and, if you have time, give it three or four whiskings along the way. This will incorporate more air and make for a smoother product.

Gin and Tonic Sorbet

1 1/2 cups of sugar
1 cup of hot water
1/4 cup gin
2 cups tonic water
juice and zest of two lemons or limes
1 egg white

Dissolve the sugar in the water. Cool. Combine with the gin and tonic and the citrus juice and zest. Pour into a lidded container such as an ice cream carton and place in the freezer.

When it is almost frozen break it up with a fork or whisk and beat in the stiffly beaten egg white. Return to the freezer. When it has re-frozen, whisk again and freeze once more.

Serve in attractive dishes or glasses. Garnish with a sprig of mint.