El Bulli still the tops

Ferran Adria has done it again - El Bulli was voted top in the S Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants for 2007. Last year's top six retained their places while Andoni Aduriz's Mugaritz, which debuted in 10th place last year, moved up to seventh.

Again two Australian restaurants were in the top 50 - Tetsuya's in fifth place and Neil Perry's Rockpool which eased back three places to 33rd. Vue de Monde was again in the second 50 and was joined for the first time by Becasse. Claude's and Icebergs of Sydney and Melbourne's Flower Drum dropped off the second 50 list.

Gordon Ramsay's Maze restaurant earned Breakthrough Restaurant award. This is a new award designed to create interest in a restaurant that is emerging as a real 'hot property' in the world restaurant trade.

The top 50 list, now in its sixth year,stimulates fervent debate and sometimes controversy, but the excitement it generates amongst those who aspire to make the list, and the massive interest it brings to the restaurant industry in general, have seen it grow into an eagerly awaited, internationally influential event.

For the purpose of selecting the top 50 list, the world is divided into 22 regions, with a chairperson in each region appointed for their knowledge of their part of the restaurant world. These chairs each selected a voting panel, who cast a total of 3,255 votes.

There is no list of nominees; each member of the international voting panel votes for their personal choice of five restaurants. They may vote for up to two restaurants in their own region, the remaining votes must be cast outside their home region. Nobody is allowed to vote for their own restaurant and voters must have eaten in the restaurants they nominate within the past 18 months.

The Australasia & Oceania voting panel is chaired by Pat Nourse, journalist and restaurant critic, and comprises: Jane Adams, Shannon Bennett, Mark Best, Laurie Black, David Burton, Greg Doyle, Teage Ezard, Erez Gordon, Guy Griffin, Andy Harris, Simon Johnson, Kevin Judd, John Lethlean, Cheong Liew, Geoff Lindsay, Chui Lee Luk, Christine Manfield, Andrew McConnell, Roger McShane, Matthew Moran, Neil Perry, Cherry Ripe, Geoff Ross, Franz Scheurer, Will Studd, Maurice Terzini, Trevor Thomas, Peter Thompson, Simon Thomsen, Tetsuya Wakuda

1: El Bulli, Spain (last year 1)

Best dish: None. Is said to be so inventive that it "transcends the limitation of signature dish".
Critics say: "A visit to El Bulli requires a willingness to suspend the reality that eating is a basic fundamental of life.

World's Best and Best in Europe.

Ferran Adria does not favour the concept of comfort eating. His tasting menus are assault courses for taste buds."

Located down a magnificent driveway in Roses, on the Costa Brava, about 160km north of Barcelona, the restaurant's head chef, Ferran Adria, is considered something of a living legend. Don't even think of dropping in on the off-chance, bookings open and close on one day in mid-January. The restaurant is open from April to September - for the rest of the year the chefs are said to be devising new recipes. If you are lucky enough to get a spot you will work through 25 dishes, which could be codfish foam or spherical potato gnocchi with consommé of roasted potatoes.

2: The Fat Duck, UK (2)

Best dish: Snail porridge
Critics say: "Insanely great food"

In Bray, Berkshire, it was opened in 1995 by Heston Blumenthal, a former salesman who discovered a passion for food on holiday in France and taught himself to cook. He is the UK's foremost exponent of "molecular gastronomy", renowned for unusual combinations such as sardines on toast sorbet, egg and bacon ice cream, or parsnip cereal.

3: Pierre Gagnaire, France (3)

Best dish: Scallops in green apple soup
Critics say: "One of the most original and artistic chefs working anywhere."

The restaurant, in Rue de Balzac, Paris, is named after its proprietor. The dining room is nothing special. The artistry is in the menu - range-raised capon, stuffed with lemony almond paste, spring onion marmalade and cherries, or the sea bass served with smoked tomato sorbet.

4: French Laundry, US (4)

Best dish: Oysters and caviar in tapioca custard
Critics say: "The best restaurant in the US"

This is a restaurant built in a former saloon at Yountville, in the Napa Valley, California.The owner/chef, Thomas Keller, who was taught to cook by his mother, bought it in 1994. Its food is mostly contemporary American, with a hint of French. Best in the Americas.

5: Tetsuya, Australia (5)

Best dish: Confit of ocean trout with ocean trout roe
Critics say: "A magical experience."

The chef, Tetsuya Wakuda, arrived in Sydney from Japan, in 1982, began as a kitchen hand, and worked his way up. Tetsuya's was Best in Australasia.

6: Bras, France (6)

Best dish: Molten chocolate cake.
Critics say: "Inspired and inspiring."

Located in the southern Auvergne region. The chef, Michel Bras, says all his influences are traditional and local.

7: Mugaritz, Spain (10)

Best dish: Poached egg in truffled chicken gelee.
Critics say: "The future of Spanish cooking."

Located at San Sebastien, its chef, Andoni Aduriz, devoted two years to the study of foie gras.

8: Le Louis XV, Monte Carlo (7)

Best dish: Praline croustillant
Critics say: "Exudes opulence"

The men who run Monaco's economy brought in Parisian chef Alain Ducasse to run a haven of luxury that would draw punters to Monte Carlo.

9: Per Se, US (8)

Best dish: "Oyster and pearls"
Critics say: "Time Warner Centre's crown jewel."

The US's top chef, Thomas Keller, has two establishments in the top 10. This one opened in New York, near Central Park, in 2004, and was an immediate hit.

10: Arzak, Spain (9)

Best dish: Mille feuille au caramel d'anguille fumee au foie gras
Critics say: "A sire of modern Spanish cuisine, with its derring-do, its exuberant playfulness". Juan Mari Arzak and daughter, Elena serve traditional Basque food.

11: El Celler de Can Roca, Spain (21)

Best dish: Lobster, thick bisque sauce, mint foam and chocolate gem.
Critics say: "The best restaurant in Catalonia."

12: Gambero Rosso, Italy (13)

Best dish: Shrimp with chickpea puree
Critics say: "Devastating charm"

A little diner in San Vincenzo, with a fabulous seaside view.

13: L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, France (25)

Best dish: Caramelised quail glazed with shallot-perfumed sauce.

Critics say: "A side of Paris that even prim T S Eliot would succumb to".

14: Hof van Cleve, Belgium (23)

Best dish: Seasonal.
Critics say: "Impeccable food"

Rural farmstead decorated with work from cutting-edge Flemish artists.

15: Noma, Denmark (33)

Best dish: Musk ox and caramelised apple, served with beetroot and woodruff
Critics say: "An ethereal interpretation of the otherwise quite rugged cuisine of the North Atlantic."

This year's highest climber.

16: Le Calandre, Italy (31)

Best dish: Risotto with saffron, red pepper and licorice.
Critics say: "I can't imagine there is a better restaurant in all of Italy."

Massimiliano Alajmo's brainchild, near Padua, specialising in seafood

17: Nobu, UK (12)

Best dish: Yellowtail with jalapeno.
Critics say: "The world's sexiest restaurant."

London's first Michelin-starred Asian restaurant; overlooks Hyde Park in central London.

18: Jean Georges, US (16)

Best dish: Sauteed scallops with cauliflower and a raisin and caper emulsion.
Critics say: "Nothing you encounter will fail to awe."

Jean-Georges Vongerichten's restaurant, overlooking Central Park, New York

19: Hakkasan, UK (36)

Best dish: Sauteed sweet ginger and pineapple roasted duck.
Critics say: "High-camp chinoiserie".

Style-conscious candle-lit restaurant in Fitzrovia, central London

20: Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, France (15)

Best dish: Pigeon fillets in a shallot mustard sauce.
Critics say: Ducasse - "The greatest chef in the world?"

21: L'Astrance, France (22)

Best dish: Avacado and crab ravioli..
Critics say: "Makes Paris roar with pleasure."

Chef/proprietor Pascal Barbot is credited with reinventing French cooking since its opening in 2000.

22: Can Fabes, Spain (11)

Best dish: Rack of lamb.
Critics say: "Close to perfection."

Santi Santamaria, opened this restaurant in his native Sant Celoni, near Barcelona, in 1981, to offer the best of Catalonian cuisine.

23: L'Ambroisie, France (40)

Best dish: Langoustines with sesame and curry
Critics say: "Every dish captures a small piece of M. Pecaud's soul."

Run by chef Bernard Pecaud in a 17th century townhouse in Paris.

24: Gordon Ramsay, UK (14)

Best dish: Tartare of sea scallops with crème fraîche and caviar, served in chilled basil consommé.
Critics say: "A wonderful chef, a second rate human being."

Ramsay does it his way, in Chelsea.

25: La Maison Troisgros, France (24)

Best dish: Hazelnut and rosemary fried scallops.
Critics say: "Simple yet, at the same time, sophisticated."

26: Le Bernardin, US (32)

Best dish: Fluke seviche.
Critics say: "Exudes the glamour and class of Manhattan."

Opened in New York in 1972 by the brothers Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze, from Brittany.

27: Martin Berasategui, Spain (37)

Best dish: Caramelised apple Napoleon
Critics say: "You'll always find surprising new combinations."

28: Le Gavroche, UK (27)

Best dish: Soufflé Suissesse
Critics say: "Synonymous with high-art classical French cuisine in London."

Old school French cuisine from Michel Roux, son of the original owner Albert Roux.

29: Le Cinq, France (17)

Best dish: Tarte of artichokes and black Périgord truffles
Critics say: "Come away dazzled."

French food in sumptuous surroundings at Paris's George V hotel.

30: Charlie Trotter's, US (26)

Best dish: Mad Hatter meatballs
Critics say: "Trotter regards recipes the way jazz musicians see their musical scores." Chef Charlie Trotter pioneered Chicago's ban on foie gras.

31: Dal Pescatore, Italy (42)

Best dish: Pumpkin parcels and anguilla alle braci (chargrilled eels).
Critics say: "Beautiful cooking in a peaceful setting."

32: Daniel, US (18)

Best dish: Chilled tomato geleé with opal basil
Critics say: "All about the simple purity of the meal"

33: Rockpool, Australia (30)

Best dish: "Ocean to plate" seafood.
Critics say: " Inspiration and bravado."

Run by Neil Perry and Trish Richards in historic Rocks district of Sydney.

34: St John, UK (35)

Best dish: Devilled kidneys, ox heart.
Critics say: "Relaxed and unfussy."

Smithfield Market location. Run by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver.

35: Chez Dominique, Finland (39)

Best dish: Pigeon with duck foie gras
Critics say: "Appealing and tasty food"

36: Alinea, US (-)

Best dish: Monkfish and banana.
Critics say: "Chef Grant Achatz is redefining the restaurant."

Famed for its theatricality. Highest new entry this year.

37: Bukhara, India (46)

Best dish: Assorted kebab platter
Critics say: "Chefs slave to produce delicacies from a menu that hasn't changed in over 25 years"

Also voted Best in Asia.

38: DOM, Brazil (50)

Best dish: Black beans and codfish.
Critics say: "The dining room is corporate looking ... the food is superb."

39: Oaxen Skargardskrog, Sweden (48)

Best dish: Truffle pig with pear purée
Critics say: "The details dazzle".

40: Chez Panisse, US (20)

Best dish: Grilled Sonoma County Liberty duck breast with merlot, shallot, and black pepper sauce
Critics say: "A jewel of a restaurant."

41: Enoteca Pinchiorri, Italy (29)

Best dish: Ricotta and spinach dumplings with lobster.
Critics say: "Prices high, portions small."

42: Cracco Peck, Italy (65)

Best dish: Saffron risotto and breaded veal cutlet.
Critics say: "Carlo Cracco revisits and renews the Milanese traditional cuisine, playing with contrasts."

43: L'Arpege, France (44)

Best dish: Candied tomato stuffed with 12 kinds of dried and fresh fruit and anise-flavored ice cream.
Critics say: "Elevates dishes to levels unequalled by any other chef in Paris."

44: The River Cafe, UK (52)

Best dish: Chargrilled peaches with amaretto.
Critics say: "Dishes simply prepared and passion had gone into sourcing the best raw materials."

45: Oud Sluis, Netherlands (19)

Best dish: Butternut cream with langoustine tempura.
Critics say: "Top class local food."

46: Combal Zero, Italy (66)

Best dish: Zuppizza, mozzarella soup with tomato and miniature basil leaves and toasted bread chips.
Critics say: "You'll go home thinking about food in new ways."

47: Le Quartier Francais, South Africa (38)

Best dish: Wood-roasted pork chop with apple relish and chorizo ragout.
Critics say:"Best of the best."

Also voted Best in Mid-East and Africa.

48: Taillevent, France (51)

Best dish: Boudin de homard - sausage-shaped lobster souffle.
Critics say: "One of the noblest temples of cuisine. It has glowed in the light of three Michelin stars for 30 years."

49: Bocuse, France (43)

Best dish: Black truffle soup, Bresse chicken cooked in pig's bladder.
Critics say: "There isn't a lot of room for variation [from the restaurant's signature dishes]."

50: Les Ambassadeurs, Paris (58)

Best dish: Scallops noix de Saint Jacques with black truffles.
Critics say: "Ranges from absurdly indulgent to the indulgently absurd."

Reader's Choice Pied à Terre, London (voted for by readers of Restaurant magazine)
Chef's Choice Heston Blumenthal at the Fat Duck (voted for by the previous year's 50 Best chefs)
Breakthrough Restaurant Maze, London
Lifetime Achievement Award Alice Waters

Awards by country: France 12; USA 8; UK 7; Spain 6; Italy 6; Australia 2; Belgium 1; Denmark 1; Finland 1; Sweden 1; India 1; Brazil 1; Netherlands 1; South Africa 1.

The next 50

51 De Karmeliet, Belgium (47 last year)
52 Le Meurice, France (54)
53 San Pau, Spain (78)
54 La Pergola, Italy (61)
55 Maze (Gordon Ramsay), UK (-)
56 Masa, New York (-)
57 Comme Chez Soi, Belgium (49)
58 Schwarzwaldstube, Germany (41)
59 Restaurant Dieter Müller, Germany (34)
60 Iggy's, Singapore (98)
61 Spondi, Greece (85)
62 Pushkin, Russia (86)
63 Guy Savoy, France (59)
64 L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon at the Four Seasons, USA (-)
65 Turandot, Russia (-)
66 Cal Pep, Spain (57)
67 Zuma, UK (-)
68 Abac, Spain (-)
69 Peter Lugar, USA (-)
70 Pic, France (-)
71 Vue de Monde, Australia (72)
72 Astrid y Gaston, Peru (74)
73 Vendome, Germany (76)
74 Wasabi, India (99)
75 Indigo, India (-)
76 Etxebarri, Spain (-)
77 Helen Darroze, France (-)
78 Sketch Lecture Room & Library, UK (-)
79 El Poblet, Spain (56)
80 Bagatelle, Norway (94)
81 Bosman's, South Africa (67)
82 Caprice, Hong Kong (-)
83 Les Amis, Singapore (-)
84 F12, Sweden (-)
85 48, Greece (-)
86 Lou Lou, Hungary (-)
87 Verre, Dubai (-)
88 Café Kor, Hungary (-)
89 Nobu New York, USA (68)
90 Gramercy Tavern, USA (-)
91 WD∼50, USA (-)
92 Le Grand Véfour, France (-)
93 L'Arnsbourg, France (69)
94 Humble House, Singapore (-)
95 Don Alfonso, Italy (-)
96 Bécasse, Australia (-)
97 Tantris, Germany (92)
98 Zuni Café, USA (-)
99 Hunkar, Turkey (-)
100 Alex at Wynn, USA (-)

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